Reims to Beaune, via Dijon

On Wednesday, we drove from Reims to Beaune, with a stop in Dijon for a fabulous lunch and of course, a stop by the Maille boutique to purchase some real Dijon mustard!  Maille was founded in 1747 and the boutique that we visited was opened not long after that.  About 30 varieties of mustard are sold in the boutique and it's possible to taste the three most well-known.  If you're lucky enough to live nearby, you can purchase a mustard pot and return to the store for refills, direct from the pumps!

Lunch was at Restaurant Stéphane Derbord, a very chic restaurant with a rising star chef who prepared our Menu Surprise, much to every one's liking.

Amuse-bouche at Restaurant Stéphane Derbord

Thursday, our group spend the day with Vincent from Cottin Frères, a company that got is start manufacturing race cars in the early 1900's and is now a well-respected winemaker in Burgundy.  During the morning, Vincent took us on a bus tour of the Côte d'Or, or the 'Gold coast', which is arguably the best 48 miles of vineyards in the world.  We stopped at the world famous Clos de Vougeot - this is the vineyard where Burgundy wines got their start.  Cistercian monks began working the land in the 16th century and became so familiar with all of the hills, soil, micro-climates, that the vineyards they laid out are still used today.  The modern day Clos de Vougeot was the monastery where they lived and worked.  In the 17th century, they put in 'modern presses' to assist their feet (yes, stomping the grapes was common!).  These four presses are still in working condition, although they have been replaced by more modern versions, which allow for better control of pressure and require much less manpower to turn the wooden screws.

One of 4 17th century wine presses at Clos de Vougeot

Lunch was catered in the old cellars of Cottin Frères, which date back to the 16th century.  The afternoon was spent continuing the tour of the vineyards and ended with a tasting of 11 of their wines and a candlelit tour of the old cellars.

The new mode in working the vineyards!

Dinner was spectacular!  Our group of 9, along with Vincent and our bus driver, Thièrry, dined in style at Le Chef Coq, an aptly named place for an owner of 7 chickens (don't tell the French that mine are of English origin!).  We enjoyed 5 courses, starting with a watermelon gazpacho topped with a curry mousse - an odd combination that worked, followed by tuna ceviche, pork with a potato emulsion (I never knew that potatoes could be so light!), a traditional cheese plate and then a selection of desserts, all accompanied by excellent Burgundy wines!